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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.